Doing it their way
The joint creative directors’ emphasis on craftsmanship when other brands talk about speed of delivery had an impact on the high street long before Gucci’s floral flourishes began pepping up Zara’s offer.
Their belief in eveningwear, in an era when other designers talk about 24/7 uniforms has also paid off, by coming at the day-for-night mantra from a different angle. Instead of giving women daywear that can be jooshed up for night time with a strategic smattering of jewellery, or a pair of heels, they seduce them with eveningwear that can be muted for day with the addition of a chunky jumper, a robust shoe, or a khaki military coat.
Dress: short bridesmaid dresses
Whimsical as it seemed then, this too has proved widely influential, so if at times in this show it seemed they were treading water, it's only fair to remember that they jumped in first.
If the shapes of those caped-back columns and pea-coats are familiar, the fabrications are different. Instead of crepe, we have slinky silk jersey (a current favourite at many labels). In place of austere, Medieval necklines, there are ruffles, spaghetti shoe string straps or deep plunging cleavages.
The ballerina wears her army boy’s wardrobe suited their agenda perfectly – not just as a framework for First Night cape back dresses, a new Valentino flat, ankle-strapped ballet shoe, olive military coats, twinkling flesh-coloured tulle dresses and patent trench coats – but as a romantic conceit.
Everyone may be riffing from their sheet music now, but they still carry the best tune.